AA Gill in the Sunday Times. A quick tip, start the read half-way down from
'All of which has precious little to do with the Cawdor Tavern, except that I went there on a Sunday, for lunch. I have a middle-aged and middle-class prejudice about catered Sunday lunches. I think it’s the thin end of a wedge that leads to a year’s free interest on a three-piece leather suite, baseball caps worn in the house and a pitbull in the microwave....'